PARIS (AP) 鈥 Sketched out on an air sickness bag, the first Birkin bag that gave birth to fashion's must-have accessory sold for a record 7 million euros (about $8.2 million) at auction in Paris on Thursday.
The huge amount 鈥 which drew gasps and applause from the audience 鈥 crushed what auctioneer Sotheby鈥檚 had said was the previous record for a handbag. That was $513,040, for a White Himalaya Niloticus Crocodile Diamond Retourne Kelly 28.
Now, the original Birkin bag, named after the actor, singer and fashion icon that 贬别谤尘猫蝉 created it for 鈥 鈥 is in a new league of its own.
The bidding started at 1 million euros ($1.17 million) and quickly became stratospheric.
The Paris fashion house exclusively commissioned the bag for the London-born star in 1984 鈥 branding it with her initials J.B. on the front flap, below the lock 鈥 and delivered the finished one-of-a-kind bag to her the following year, the auction house said. The subsequent commercialized version of Birkin's bag went on to become one of the world鈥檚 , extravagantly priced and with a yearslong waiting list.
A fashion accessory born of a chance conversation
The bag was born of a fortuitous encounter on a London-bound flight in the 1980s with the then head of 贬别谤尘猫蝉, Jean-Louis Dumas. Birkin recounted in subsequent interviews that the pair got talking after she spilled some of her things on the cabin floor.
Birkin asked Dumas why 贬别谤尘猫蝉 didn鈥檛 make a bigger handbag and sketched out on an airplane vomit bag the sort of hold-all that she would like. He then had an example made for her and, flattered, she agreed when 贬别谤尘猫蝉 asked whether it could commercialize the bag in her name.
鈥淭here is no doubt that the Original Birkin bag is a true one-of-a-kind 鈥 a singular piece of fashion history that has grown into a pop culture phenomenon that signals luxury in the most refined way possible. It is incredible to think that a bag initially designed by 贬别谤尘猫蝉 as a practical accessory for Jane Birkin has become the most desirable bag in history," said Morgane Halimi, Sotheby鈥檚 head of handbags and fashion.
The bag became so famous that Birkin before her death in 2023 at age 76 that her obituaries would likely 鈥渟ay, 鈥楲ike the bag鈥 or something.鈥
鈥淲ell, it could be worse," she added.
Seven design features set The Original apart
Sotheby鈥檚 said that seven design elements on the handcrafted all-black leather prototype set it apart from Birkins that followed.
It's the only Birkin with a nonremovable shoulder strap 鈥 fitting for the busy life and practicality of the singer, actor, social activist and mother who was also known for her romantic relationship with French singer Serge Gainsbourg and their duets that included the steamy 1969 song 鈥淛e t鈥檃ime moi non plus鈥 (鈥淚 Love You, Me Neither鈥).
Her bag also had a nail clipper attached, because Birkin 鈥渨as never one for long painted nails,鈥 Sotheby鈥檚 said.
The bag that 贬别谤尘猫蝉 handmade for her, developed off its existing Haut A Courroies model, also has gilded brass hardware, bottom studs and other features that differ from commercial Birkins.
Birkin's casual, breezy style in the 1960s and early 1970s 鈥 long hair with bangs, jeans paired with white tops, knit minidresses and basket bags 鈥 still epitomizes the height of French chic for many women around the world.
The prototype has twice changed hands
When Birkin chatted to 贬别谤尘猫蝉' Dumas on the Paris-to-London flight about what her ideal handbag would be, she'd been in the habit of carrying her things around in a wicker basket, because she felt handbags in the 1980s were too small, Sotheby鈥檚 said. She was traveling with her young daughter, Charlotte, and complained that she couldn鈥檛 find a bag suitable for her needs as a mother, 贬别谤尘猫蝉 says.
贬别谤尘猫蝉 later gifted her four other Birkin bags. She kept the prototype for nearly a decade, before auctioning it for an AIDS charity in 1994. It was auctioned again in 2000 and has since been in private hands, Sotheby鈥檚 said.
鈥淢ore than just a bag, the Birkin has evolved from a practical accessory to become a timeless cultural icon," the auction house said.
鈥淚ts presence spans the worlds of music, film, television and the arts," it added. "It is a red-carpet staple, a fashion magazine mainstay, and a coveted piece in the wardrobes of celebrities, artists and stylists.鈥
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John Leicester reported from Le Pecq.